Author: pepo

When we woke up we found out basically everybody around us had left and it wasn’t that late. We packet our stuff as well as today we had the Great Ocean Road and the Twelve Apostles on our list.

After about two hours we took the exit and at first we where not very impressed by the surrounding, but then the road got closer to the ocean and the view points where well signed. We started at the ‘Bay of Islands’ It was very windy, which made it a bit chilly at times, but also resulted in nice waves at sea.

After that we visited ‘Bay of Martyrs’, ‘London Bridge’, ‘The arge lookout’, ‘The blowhole’, ‘Thundercave’,’Loch Ard Gorge’ before we got to ‘The Twelve Apostles’.

All of them where beautiful in their own way, the Twelve Apostles by far the most touristic and not my number one, but very nice to see with this big wind.

From here it was just 40 minutes to a wild camping place in a forest, which as well was windy, so we had an easy meal and turn in just after sunset.

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The next morning after I woke up and checked on a next place to go, I suddenly heard a bt of a rumble in the distance. So I got up and started to pack the side awning, the awning, the table and chairs and other other stuff that was outside.

Then when Mo woke up and the rumble got clearer we packed the tent and -unlike our neighbors yesterday- drove to the firm sand to get to the exit of the beach. Before we did I did a quick skinny dip to freshen up . When we got to the asphalt, we stopped near the toilet building as it blocked a lot of the wind and I started to make tea and coffee. When the coffee was almost done some drops fell, but when we finished our drinks they stopped already.

I found a nice camping place in the forest where there was a possibility to see some wild life. On our way we would do some shopping and fuel up. When we drove through Mount Gambier, I noticed a sign about a sinkhole and a big parking lot. So after fueling up we checked it out.

Umpherston Sinkhole, also known as The Sunken Garden: Originally formed as a limestone cave through natural dissolution, the sinkhole was created when the cave’s roof collapsed, leaving a deep, circular depression. In the mid-1860s, James Umpherston transformed the site by spreading topsoil across the floor, turning it into a lush, terraced garden that has since flourished and become a beloved local landmark. 

The garden is now a vibrant, green oasis with fountains, rows of flowers, hanging vines, and native palms, all nestled within the limestone walls.

The camp site was a bit bigger as expected and also a bit more popular as it was Saturday night, so a lot of locals in their big off rout caravans where camping out and apparently the signs about fire safety did not apply here or so as all the fire pits ha bit fires. Mo went for a little walk and I updated the blog a bit when I suddenly saw a walibi jumping around. I made a few pictures and waited for Mo to get back. She did not see anything, but had a nice walk.

We had dinner and then went for a walk together to see if around sunset the animals would get more active, but no luck. When we got back I checked our fire pit and after stirring a bit in the ashes I got a small fire going pretty easy, which was nice, as it was cooling down rapidly. So a cup of tea at the fire we turned in with the greatest hits of ABBA from the neighbors in the background.

As usual during a vacation, we took it easy in the morning. I made coffee for Mo and tea for me and than we had bacon and eggs. It was nicely sunny without being to harsh. At some point we looked at each other and decided we would stay here for another nice.

Even though the afternoon temperatures where not very high, we figured it would beat temperatures in the high 30s further on. Besides we don’t want to get to Melbourne to fast, as there is a rain front passing by.

Our neighbors, a couple of young guys with a LandCruiser 200 series and a trailer provided us with some entertainment. When they wanted to leave, it did not go very smooth and it seemed they only knew the ‘more power’ approach. Every time to ‘cleared’ some sand from around the wheels they both would get in the car, create a stream of send on the left front and right back wheel and dug in deeper and deeper. At some point they where properly bogged, when an old Hilux stopped by and offered some help. With some bold power the LandCruiser was released and then an 80 series came to help them get there trailer from the spot. A hour well spend.

We had a nice quiet afternoon and at some point Mo went to sit in the car as it was getting chilly, still 19-20 degrees, but it is relative. I made a cup of tea and then had a video call with my dad who was having breakfast. Amazing how you can have a video call from a beach in Australia to a house in the Netherlands.

We decided to try the soup we bought as a starter and then make the some meat and vegetables. At the end of the dinner we where treated to a nice sunset and then it was time to get some sleep again.

At the previous camp site I had a little chat with a couple standing next to us about their setup and one thing led to another. They recommended Pink Beach, close to Kingston S.E. You can do beach driving there and it is allowed to camp there. Both things where on my ‘nice to have list’ for Australia and one of the reason I bought the compressor so I could pump up my tires in case I would need to let down the pressure for driving in soft sand.

Pink beach, was about 3,5 hours from our current camp site and about 1/3rd or the route to Melbourne, so pretty perfect. Soon after we had left we got to a river crossing near Wellington, which had a cable ferry. We had to wait for one round for it to have place and then we continued to a landscape of vineyards, cornfield, coast line, bushes and forests.

We had a lunch break in the Coorong NP, which also had several nice camping spots. On entering Kingston, we saw a huge lobster next to the road as an advertisement, similar to the big banana we saw up north.

A few km south of Kingston the exit to the beach was and a few minutes later we where at the beginning of the beach. I was told the sand was pretty sturdy, so I likely would not need to air down, but to make sure I did shift into low gear. With moderate speed I plowed through the softer sand higher on the beach and then got to the firm sand or the ‘beach road’.

It was a fun ride and we passed several setups. Before a corner we saw a nice spot away from the crowd to park the car and set up camp. There where 2 flood lines and we parked another 10 meters higher, so we should not get surprised by high water. The temperature was pretty low compared to the previous days (around 22 degrees on arrival) so we did not go swimming, just checked out the sea.

We enjoyed dinner with a glass of wine and turned in a bit after the sun set.

Back in Estonia, already years ago,, we found an Australian Shiraz we both like a lot. I found out the wine cellar is actually close to Adelaide, so we decided to book a shiraz wine tasting.

The trip there was nice through rolling hills and winding roads, some of them unpaved, which all took a bit longer then planned, but since we took plenty of time we where at the cellar about 10 minute before our appointment.

We where greeted by Alison, who asked if we wanted to sit inside or outside. Since the weather was pretty mild we picked a place in the shadow and she started with an introduction of the history of Hardy’s and the region in general. We started with a shiraz that is only available in Australia. Very nice and recognizable. A good step above our normal ‘house wine’.

In total we had 5 different Shirazs, all with a slightly differnt tast. The last was was for sure the best, but at 150 AUD per bottle it better be.

After the tasting we checked out the winery and took some pictures. We had lunch in a nearby park and then decided to get back to the same camp site we stay the night before, as there was not that much choice in the region. Funnily on the way back the GPS suggested a different route, where the 4WD was not a luxery on one stretch of the route. A very warn down track down the hill was a nice challenge.

Another lazy moring. At some point Mo was walking on th ebeach looking for shells and I was updaging the blog, when I looked up and at 1,5 meter there was a 70 centimeter lizard like creating walking around. I grabbed my phone and made a few pictures and once it had passed, I walked to the beach to signal Mo to check out our guest.

The animal did not seem to be bothered by us being there, and walked around our camp for 10-15 minutes letting us take pictures and videos before it disappeared in the bushes.

Later I loked up what kind of liard it was and it seems to be a Varan, and likely a Rosenberg’s Monitor.

We took it easy, packet our stuff and drove to the harbour were we where a bit to early, so we walked around a bit and had a drink at a local cafe before boarding.

The trip was way smoother then on the way to the island. After that we headed for a camping spot about 60 km east of Adelaide. It was a simple organized camp site with a drop toilet where you could stay for the enormous amount of 5 AUD to be deposited in a safe.

The morning started slow with breakfast, walking on the beach and swimming, at some point Mo said, we have a visitor, it turned out to be a pelican which was fishing just in front of our camping spot. We went to take pictures and discover a few more. Amazing big birds!.

We packed up and drove to the other side of the island. In Flinders Chase National park there where a few things to see. The animal sanctuary did not look as interesting as on paper, so we did not book a spot. We continued into the national park and stopped at the visitors center to pay the entrance fee only to find out it was fee until easter.

We had put the GPS to the remarkable rocks, but first stopped at the lighthouse near the Admirals arch. When we walked down the boardwalk toward the cliff we suddenly notices some sea-lions laying on the cliffs down below and after we saw one we saw a second, an third and then many more. Just like with the first stars at night. It was so nice to see these huge creatures in the natural habitat.

Continuing down the stairs we came to the arch that give this land tongue it’s name.

The next stop was the Remarkable Rocks. When we got out of the car another car stopped and when we where greeted friendly by a Korean (?) family. They had been on the same ferry as us and I had gotten a sea sickness bag for the lady. According to the son she had been talking a long time about that act of kindness, which just seemed the right thing to do at the time.

We walked the board walk to the Remarkable rocks and in deed these by rain and wind formed rocks, where pretty nice, especially considering the rest of the surroundings.

We tried to find some of the camping spot that should be on this side of the island, but all tracks leading to them where closed, so we decided to go back to the wonder spot we left this morning. As it was getting pretty dusky the activity of wild life intensified, on a 45 minute trip we saw several walibis and an dozen kangaroos. a few of them dangerously close in front of the car, I am glad the breaks and ABS worked properly.

Another nice evening at an amazing spot.

The next morning when I got out of the tent, I saw one of the igloo tents of the neighbors stuck against the fence. It seemed they bailed out and the tent blew away.

It was still pretty windy and a bumpy ride to the island seemed to be ahead. We drove to the harbour and checked in. While loading the crew seemed to make it a sport to have the cars park as close as possible. I had to enter the ferry in reverse, then my left mirror was folded away and I had to follow instructions. The car ended up less then 5 cm from the other car. Impressive.

Even though the ferry was a catamaran the ride was in deed bumpy. Mo had taken some motion sickness pill and for me standing in the fresh air and aiming for a horizon got me to the other end.

Once off the ferry we stopped to make lunch and then drove to see if the camping spot I had picked was available. It was and it was perfect, at 50 meters from the sea between some trees. We decided we would rest and enjoy the surroundings for the rest of the afternoon and find out what to do the next day.

We left Uluru to be ahead of the heat, but during our ride we got information of a heat wave that would last for 5-8 days in the entire south of Australia, temperatures for today where predicted at 43 degrees in Adelaide. So we planned a visit to the Art Gallery of South Australia during the hottest hours. After that we would take a ferry to Kangaroo Island where the temperatures would be more moderate.

While it was still nice we spend around the tent. Then I found out the back door would not open anymore. Youtube to the rescue. It is a common issue on 120 series Landcruisers in dusty situations where dust gets into the lock. The easiest way is to flush it out with some WD40. So I only needed to get some WD40. Luckily there was another Landcruiser standing close to us and I had already noticed they where heavily prepared. It turned out to be a German couple who had already been traveling 9 months and still had 15 months to go. Next to spare shock absorbers and the likes they also had some WD40 and 2 minutes later the backdoor opened with ease again.

We had a swim and left for Adelaide.

On the radio we had also heard about a Corpse Flower that started to flower in the botanical garden of Adelaide, I fancied a visit, as they only bloom very rarely and then only for 24 hours, but by 10 they had closed the waiting line with the heat rolling in. Waiting 3 hours with these temperatures seems to be pushing it a bit. So we headed for the art gallery.

During our trip we had seen some small dust twisters and sometimes a dust cloud blowing by, but just south of Port Wakefield we saw a hug dust cloud, it was going straight over the road and the next few minutes we drove in a surreal world where visibility dropped to about 50 meters and the speed was drastically lowered as well.

We found a paid parking spot (just 5,30 AUD for 3 hours) and walked the last few hundred meters over the university terrain while a hot wind did not really cool us down, but was still nice.

The art gallery turned out to have free entrance and it was setup very nicely. There would be a free guided tour later in the afternoon. There was an Australia wing with some European stuff and a European wing with some Australian stuff. All in all a very nice museum with a nice versatile collection. During the visit we got a message the ferry we booked needed emergency repair. After a call we where rebooked for the next day and also our way back was rebooked.

We did some groceries for the upcoming days and headed for a camping spot which turned out to be closed. I found another spot close to the ferry. We had a nice ride through flowing mountains and winding roads, but in the end most tracks where closed, so we could not reach the camp sites we planned. We did get on top of one of the mountains next to one of those wind turbines. They made a scary amount of squeaking noises and with the amount of wind we almost blew away. We decided to go to a paid camp site we had seen nearby.

Once we got out of the car we noticed the temperature had dropped to 17 degrees. 26 degrees lower then a few hours ago. We decided to have a simple meal in the camp kitchen and a glass of whisky to keep us warm.

Since it was still very windy we decided to drive to Coober Pady for our morning coffee and tea. We took the scenic route past some viewing points including the one at the dog fence. A 5614 km long fence build in the last century to keep de dingos north of it and protect the sheep south of it.

After a visit to a local coffee place, we turned unto Stuart Highway again. A coffee/tea stop at Glendambo where I now recognized that the tea tasted different because the water was mineral rich like in Uluru.

During the day it became clear we would not make it to Adelaide before sunset, so I found a nice camp spot west of Port Wakefield near a small beach. There was more wind during the night be we had a nice spot between the trees, so it bothered us less.