Author: pepo

It seemed our neighbor was going to see the sunrise, as she left very early. We had more time, so we slept in a bit and then had time to explore the surroundings. In the light I saw a bit of Uluru, so I decided to take a little hike up a dune in the distance after breakfast.
It was amazing, no other people and just nature. If we ever come back again, this is the place I want to spend the night and it might even be a nice place for a sunset view from the top of the dune.

Back at the car, we packed up and left for the the first leg of our trip towards Adelaide. At Eridunda we got a bit of fuel, enough to get to Marla, as they sure where charging mid desert prices (2,85, where I have also paid 1,52). In Marla we filled up and continued to Coober Pady. The lady from the museum had told about The Breakaways and I had found there was a camping place on the cliff.

This was absolutely an amazing place to camp. We started to have dinner on the cliff and after sunset we put up the tent and went to bed. During the night however the wind got stronger and stronger. I first put down some Of the flaps, but just before dawn I decided to move the car down the cliff out of the wind. This was much better, but we missed the view in the morning, although without the wind we slept in till 9.

Plans are there to be changed they say, and so where todays plans. We decided that even though the sunset was magical last night, there was no need to repeat it. In stet we would drive the 50 kilometers west to visit Kata Tjuta, the less know rock formation. We also decided to not spend a second night on the camp site. So we first went to the camp site reception to arrange that and pay for the one night we actually stayed there. The friendly lady at the reception also explained why they where closed so early, as this is not the high season. Due to the heat there are just a few campers, during the winter they are open till 21:00.

The drive to Kata Tjuta was very similar to the drive to Uluru, a long straight road. Mo notices a specific tree, which turned out to be a juvenile desert oak, in this stage the spiny leaves all point down to catch and direct all the moister to it’s root system. Once the root system has developed enough to reach the deeper water levels, it will grow into a more conventional looking tree.

As suggested we first stopped at the sun rise spot and climbed the dune to see the rock formation from this angle. It was at least as impressive as Uluru.
Back at the parking lot I noticed a dish antenna, that I had seen a few times before. The sign explained you put your phone on the spot and it would improve the signal. I checked my phone and it did not have any signal, but 10 seconds after I put it at the designated spot it had 1 bar. Very cool!

We continued our drive to the parking lot near the gorge. We where advised to check out the mouth of the gorge. But as the temperature was less harsh then expected, we ended up walking most of the gorge, which was very impressive.

Next stop was the sunset spot. There where only 5 other people here. We sat down with some drinks and snacks and had a nice chat with a British guy who was there with his daughter.

Once the sun had set, we drove back, past Uluru for a last glimps and out of the national park to the wild camping spot I had found on iOverlander. It was basically all we needed, a spot in the morning shade and level ground. After us another car came and then a van with a lady we had seen during the Mala tour and at the cultural center. She was relieved she was not the only one there.

At 4:30 the alarm woke us up, We packed the tent and left for the park. Unlike the sunset spot where you could basically see the rock from the car in the parking lot, here you had to mark and walk a bit to several view points. The closest was to busy, the next once already better and even further there where hardly any people and I’d say it had the best foreground as well.

It was very nice to see the colour change sometimes in minutes sometimes in second. The pictures give an impression, but it was amazing! After the sun was fully up, we went back to the car and had coffee, tea and breakfast, Bacon and eggs again. That seems to work well in this warm weather and then suddenly we had to hurry to be in time for the Mala walk, a guided tour by an aboriginal guide. Leroy did an amazing job, he had a nice style of story telling and would repeat important parts several time.
He talked about stories from the beginning, stories about what foods you can find in the desert, stories about men and women tasks, about skipping generation upbringing (kids with grandparents, parents with great-grandparent etc) and in the mean time he showed several caves and what the where used for. The tour ended at a water well where the water was extremely low, as there has not been any real rain in 2 years. He told about how to clean the water so it could still be consumed if needed, all in all 2 hours flew by.

We stayed around the well a bit as it was nicely cool and then walked back to the car, to drive to the cultural center for a presentation. When we got there it seemed like the movie had just started, so we found a place and saw a very interesting movie about how the land of Uluru was given back to the aboriginal people and all the injustice that had been done before.

We walked around the cultural center had a drink (ginger jalapeno was super nice) and then decided to have lunch at the picnic place. We made sausages and vegetables and had a nice drink with it before we got back to the cultural center. There we found out the actual presentation had been in a different room. While Mo watched another documentary I had a very nice and diverse chat with the ranger that was there. She told me that if we had Leroy as our Mala tour guide, we did not miss a thing. She also recommended to go to the other mountain, Kata Tjuta, 50 km west of Uluru and see the sunset there and have a bit of a walk to the start of the gorge as it is very nice.

When we woke up in the morning, most other campers where gone already. As the temperature where still pleasant and the last part was not that far anymore, we made a nice big breakfast with bacon and eggs.

I took a shower and washed my linen shorts, which turned out to be my favorite during this trip. I did not bring a towel and by the time I was back at the car, my skin was mostly dry, a nice breeze and temperatures around 30 degrees sure did their thing.

We filled up the tank again as the fuel here was relative cheap compared the the upcoming fuel stations and hit the road.

At first we passed the border with Northern Territory, it seemed we lost another our, and where on Darwin time (1:30 earlier then Sydney). After a few hours driving we finally saw the sign to turn left, after over 1000 km going straight. And another hour and a half later a mountain showed up on the left of the road. We read about this, it is Mount Connor, also known as Fooluru. We stopped at the few point with also had a drop toilet to answer the calls of nature.

And then finally around 1600 km from when we made the decision to visit Uluru we where there, almost. Through a dune landscape we had seen a few glimpses of the rock, and then we where at the resort accommodating all visitors. We figured we take the camp site, but the reception was closed. A call to the security number learned we could checkin at the nearby hotel. Meanwhile a German and and Aussie couple arrived as well, so we drove together to the hotel where at some point we occupied 3 of the 4 checking desk and everybody what checking with their coworkers how to do a camping checking.

At some point I had a spot, but I did not get to pay yet, as the system did not work. “You can go to the camping reception tomorrow to sort that out”. Since all this had taken most of the spare time we had before the sunset, we drove to the park, payed our fee and where welcomed by a very friendly and talkative guy who also gave us plenty of tips on what to do and where to go. And then, around the corner, there was a first glimpse of the rock that made us make this journey.

It was amazing! But a few minutes later when we got to the parking lot with dozens of other cars, some of the magic disappeared. Together with the resort town this holy place for the Aboriginals was commercialized to the bone by white men.
Nevertheless the sunset was breathtaking and the pictures do not do it justice.

When the sunset was over we drove around the rock and we realized this was the first time we drove at night. We went to the camp site, found our spot after a bit of driving around in the dark, had a drink and a sandwich and turned it. We had a alarm at 4:30

It was refreshing to wake up without a lot of birds singing or screaming to welcome the new day. The vast emptiness of the landscape really spoke to me and I got a deep feeling of relaxation. For some reason I seem to connect with this emptiness.

The plan for today is to drive around 600 km, so we are not very much in a hurry and we can do some sight seeing here and there. This started quickly, already after a few kilometers there was a viewpoint to Lake Hart, another dried up salt lake. We walked there and enjoyed the nature and silence.

About 45 minute later we got to Glendambo. After this is the longest stretch without any service stations (around 250 km) and even though we have a long range tank, I filled up. At the service station we had a cappuccino and a tea and then Mo saw there where showers. We have been wild camping for about a week now and haven’t has a swim for 3 days, so a shower sounded inviting and for $5 it was worth it.

After the shower I updated the blog as we had a decent internet connection here and then we where ready for the next leg to Coober pady. At some point there where signs that a stretch of road was an emergency landing strip for the RFDS, the flying doctors. I guess we have to watch a few episodes once we get home.

This town has grown around the opal mines in the area and most of the village was either opal or hospitality oriented. After getting some extra water, we went to the opal and aboriginal museum and where surprised it was free. Only the guided tour of the old mine was paid, but the last one of the day had already left.

It was small enough you could see everything and since it was made in an old mine temperatures inside where much friendlier then outside where the mercury scratched 40 again.

We bought a book about aboriginal dreams and a nice hanger with opal in resin. It seemed we had taken our time as it was almost 18:00 already. The lady at the mine gave some tips on what to see and we visited the underground church. Not as impressive as the church in the salt mines of Poland, but still worth a visit. It was pretty small and could hold maybe 50 people.

After that we decided we had seen enough of Coober Pady and pointed our navigation to Marla, another 150 km north. Since we left late we would get there around sunset. The free camp site I found on iOverlander was not ideal and since it was getting dak we opted for the travellers rest of Marla.

At first the guy at the reception said they where fully sold out, but when I mentioned we did not need power, there was a spot. We put up the tent next to one of the few trees and cracked open a nice cold beer. The fridge we bought is really good and in combination with the battery pack we can easily keep it running 24 hours a day.

It was still 35 degrees an hour after sunset and when I checked out the toilets I realised why everybody was using power: All caravans and campers where having the AC on.

We made sausages and vegetables and went to sleep, it was pretty windy, so there was enough air flowing through the tent. In combination with the rechargeable ventilator it was pretty comfortable.
During the night the wind got stronger and I had to close one of the flaps. I guess this is the wind that is bringing the cooler air that is predicted for the upcoming days.

During the night I woke up and layed awake for a while. I decided to check out plans for the morning. I found a nice camping place near the sea.

I also checked the weather forecast and noticed that in the middle of the week the temperatures in Uluru seemed half way decent. (Only 34-35 C and not 40+), so I checked the route and a blog on the trip to Alice Springs, which is 80% the same.

The next morning I shared the plan with Mo and she agreed it would be a good idea, even though it is about 1600 km one way to get there.

We packed up and headed for Port Augusta. Hardly on our way we saw some ‘Loch Ness’ monster, we stopped and found it it was lake Bumbunga, once of the pink lakes we read about and we planned to visit. As it is the mids of summer, it was dry, but when we walked to the ‘monster’ we noticed the ground was a thick crust of salt.

Once in Port Augusta we found a supermarket to get some food and extra water (and beer and wine), fill up the tank. (It is now clear that this car uses almost double of what the previous car used 1:6,5) and we where ready to go. We discussed where we would spend the night in a beautiful gorge in the wrong direction of in the outback on our way. We agree the latter was the better option.

The first camping place we aimed was not very interesting and it was still pretty hot, so we decided to drive on a bit more. It was amazing how quick the landscape changed from trees and bushes to small bushes and grass land and back. It seemed like someone drew a line and then the landscape changed.

In Woomera we checked the service station, but it did not look very appealing. About 20 km further at the Island Lagoon Lookout we stopped for a few pictures and found there was a nice breeze and figured this was as good of a place as any to spend the night. We moved the car a bit further from the road and set up camp. We had dinner at sunset and then turned in. We layed on top of the duvet as it was to warm to go under.

Around 23:00 we woke up as there was a car near. Such a large area, but they had to park next to us. When I noticed they also popped up a rooftop tent I went back to sleep. The next time we woke up to answer a call of nature and looked at the stars. Orion is the easy one on the Southern hemisphere, but this time I found the Southern Cross as well. Looking at stars when it is pitch dark is so amazing!

Waking up in nature without other people around is always nice. We had our morning ritual of coffee and tea. Then breakfast and close the awning and tent.

As it was so nice a quiet I told Mo she should try to drive our little monster. After a bit of convincing she took place behind the steering wheel. I explained the pedals and stick and had her start the car. With the power steering and the automatic transmission it turned out to be fun and Mo drove the the toilet building where we cleaned up and tapped some water for washing/cooling.

Today we continued to follow the Sturt Highway towards Adelaide. I had found a forest camp ground which looked promising. At some point we saw the sign of “Welcome to the NSW outback”. And an hour later entered Victoria, there we could stop easy and make a picture.

Not long after we saw some flashing lights and big signs. Apparently we where nearing South Australia and they have a strict rule on not bringing any fruits or vegetables from other states to keep the state fruit-fly free. A few hundred meter later there was a place to get of your fruits and vegetables and an explanation of the why and how high the fines are.

We had just done groceries yesterday, so this felt very bad, trowing away perfectly good food. We made a salad of paprika, tomato and cucumber and ate the mango and papaya. We also bought a dragon fruit, but that was not on the list, so we decided to keep it. The blue berries and the mango and papaya we could not eat, we put in the yogurt. So in the end we only had to toss a paprika and tomato and 2 small cucumbers.

A few km later there was a checking station. A friendly guy asked us about our fruits and vegetables and I told him it hurt to trow away good food and that we kept a dragon fruit, which was OK. He checked the car and the fridge and we where good to go.

After we got of the highway we entered an area with nice rolling hills and vineyards. When we got to the campsite, to our surprise it was closed from December 1st till March 31st. I added this to iOverlander and we checked for another place to stay. Nothing much in the neighborhood, but there was a free camp ground around a cricket field, similar to how we stayed at a rugby club in Byron Bay. Because of this detour we had some great views over valley.

Mo did not feel very well, so she layed down and after dinner I turned in early as well.

After a good rest day we packet up our stuff and drove westwards again. We first stopped in Wagga Wagga for some epoxy to fix one of the camping chairs an groceries for the upcoming days, as we where getting out of about everything.

This was an easy trip as we more or less turned on a round and than around 450 km further we would take an exit an get to the campsite in a National Park.

During the drive the landscape changed from light forest and hills, to wine yards, to fields with crops and then suddenly hardly any trees and flat as far as the eye can reach. I loved this wide openness, Mo was less enthusiastic.

Maps.me has a bug when it comes to unpaved roads, then suddenly it has not clue on how to calculate travel time. So suddenly we where already at he sign for the camp site and the navigation said it would take another 30 minutes to get there, while it was just 2 more kilometers.

We where greeted by several kangaroos and together with the birds around that where the only living creatures in the area. The camp ground should have 14 spots and we could pick one, as they where all free.

Also when you are on vacation you need a rest sometimes. Especially if on earlier occasions this did not work out due to heat, rain, or car troubles. So today we stay at this camp ground and do nothing but chill, relax, eat something, drink something and dip in the river.

At some point I also remembered I brought a hammock, so once I installed that, I layed in there for a bit and then Mo found out it was a nice height to play with my hear and since a haircut was already a bit overdue, shy did a bit of a clean up with some very small scissors.

In the mean time we also found out the weather towards Melbourne was pretty bad as well, so we will go towards Adelaide first. See if we can find the pink lake and the kangaroo island.

So far our plans for the day and where to drive next have mainly been given in by the weather forecast. This morning I found out that for the upcoming week there would be a lot of rain on mostly the entire east coast. Weather land inwards seemed more appealing, so I checked for a route towards Melbourne more land inwards, and about half way I found a nice camping spot next to a river.

When I started to make breakfast, I heard something in the bushes behind me, when I looked I saw a tail behind the tree. I carefully went to check it out and saw a huge lizard that was climbing the tree, later on it climbed even higher. Impressive creature and nice camouflage.

Maps.me had another nice route for the first half of the trip. We cut through the mountains, then a large stretch of forest, followed by highlands and then nice rolling hills. At some point we where so remote that there was no radio reception. For fun I switched to AM and found 1 radio station, until that also ran out.
We had coffee and tea at a small town established in the 1830s with 530 souls. It really gave this wild west/frontier vibe.

The second stretch was on a highway and the last 25 km on a local road. The camp site seemed nice and we found a nice spot under a big eucalyptus with view to the river. Depending on where you entered it was a gradual entry or you where shoulder deep in 4 steps. Ideal for a quick refresh.